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</a> A wild plant that grows by the sea in most parts of Britain, it has bitter-tart orange berries. They have that irritatingly cool forage factor – they are free, so they’re egalitarian, but also virtually impossible to get, so they’re the ultimate in elitism. Now researchers at Edinburgh’s Queen Margaret University claim they’re high in vitamins C and E and full of antioxidants. The real pull as far as I’m concerned is that they are delicious, with a passion-fruit flavour that is gorgeous in jam or as a sauce for white-chocolate puds. En Place Sea Buckthorn and Lime Jam from fortnumandmason.com and The Meat Merchant, Moira, Northern Ireland BT67 0LZ
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