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</a> Curds… the hearts of creatures… purslane and things that are wild… When I saw the menu at One Leicester Street, my first thought was that it had a Noma-ish (Nomic?) mood, indeed, was not unlike the restaurant it replaced, St John Hotel. Ah. It turned out that it has the same chef, the same original proprietors are involved, and the main thing, on paper, that’s changed is that it has found a money-bags (Peng Loh, a hotelier) with more money. And yet there is a marked difference.
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